As a beginner in the woodworking realm, there’s no doubt saw is one of the first tools you should pick up.
When considering the kind/style of saw to choose, there are a lot more to think about, because your saw is a major tool that determines how safe and smooth your cuts will be.
Whether it’s the table saw, the radial arm saw, the chop saw or the slider milter saw, it all depend on the kind of blade you’ve inserted around the tool, and also the kind of cuts you plan to make.
It’s important that you choose wisely when it comes to saw styles and blades because its performance actually varies from blade to blade.
It’s really not that complicated; choosing the right saw blades entail that you have a basic idea of how different blades work, and what actually distinguishes the cheaper ones from top quality ones.
When you’re able to figure this out, it won’t take time before you’ll know the type of blade that’ll fit the particular job you want to do, and also if it would fit into your budget.
Like I said earlier, different blades have been designed for specific purposes, some have been designed to rip wood, cross cut word, cut veneered plywood and panels, cut non-ferries metals, cut melamine, laminates, and plastics.
The general purpose and combination blades are basically used for two or additional kinds of cuts.
What really determines how good a saw blade is a gullet, the number of teeth, the tooth configuration and the tooth angle (hook angles)?
Blades that have lesser number of teeth often move the wood faster while the ones with larger number give a smoother cut.
For instance, 15’ blade that is used to rip wood will have fewer teeth, while blades that have over 25 teeth will move the wood faster through the equipment across the grain.
A high-quality blade that would require little effort and leave a fresh cut with small of scoring is far better than a lower quality blade that has not been designed to run through mirror-like cuts; the mirror here means the edges are of the same size.
On the flip side, a crosscut blade is designed to give you an even cut against the grain of the wood without splintering and tearing.
About 70 to 80 teeth make up the crosscut blade.
Don’t forget, when you’re moving less material, each of the tooth matches up less with the wood, and this simply means that a crosscut sharp edge will make much smoother and single cuts than the other ripping blades.
If you’re able to make use of a good quality cross cut cutting edge, then the polished finish will show up on the wood.
Maybe all this time you didn’t know what the gullet really is, you should learn about it now.
Have you noticed the missing space from the blade plate located in front of the different tooth, and also allows for chip removal?
Well, that missing space is known as the gullet. Read more about gullet definition here.
The gullet is a bit smaller in the crosscutting blade, with the chips also smaller per tooth and are fewer.
The rate is a bit faster in the ripping blades than the cross-cutting action, with bigger chips, so the gullet, in this case, is going to be a bit bigger so that it can take in the larger amount of material that will run through it.
The teeth are supposed to be perfectly lined with the blade, but now are tipped either outward or inward, although that will depend on the configuration and makeup of the blade.
The slant shaped line is connected to the tooth face with a line drawn to the middle of the blade around the tip of the tooth; that’s the basic description of the hook angle and how it works.
The hook angle shows how the teeth have been tipped away from the path of rotary motion, the reverse of this is the positive hook angle.
Zero hook slant means that the teeth are aligned to the midpoint of the blade.
A hook angle of about 20 degrees or more will cut at a very fast rate, a low hook or negative position will yield a slower supply rate and also will hinder the blade from moving up the material as it’s supposed to be.
The shape of the teeth and how they are grouped is intertwined with the way the blade cuts.
The configuration generally talks about the way a blade is going to cut if it’s a ripper, laminate cutter or cross-cutting.
It would be wrong to deny or ignore the massive speed with which a sliding chop saw or a table saw work.
For joinery, however, it would be difficult to beat the backsaw’s precision for cutting out what you really need.
Handsaws are easier to control and much cheaper than the heavy saws.
The hand saws have been designed to hold firm the thinnest, sharpest of blades, and they can cut through woods with maximum control and minimum waste.